Types of Moccasins - A Complete Guide


Penny, tassel, horsebit, Belgian, Venetian and driving moccasins - learn the differences between the types of moccasins, when to wear them and how to choose them for the occasion.

What are moccasins?

Moccasins are slip-on shoes without laces, originally worn by Native Americans. Modern moccasins are elegant casual footwear characterized by: no fastening, moccasin construction (seam around the toes), soft leather, flat or slightly raised sole.

Popular since the 1950s thanks to the Bass (Weejuns) and Gucci (Horsebit loafer) brands. Today - a classic of smart casual men's wardrobe.

1. Penny Loafers

Penny Loafers
The most recognizable type. Characteristic feature: a transverse stripe with a slit at the tip (so-called saddle). Legend says that students put penny coins there "for good luck".

When to wear: Business casual, weekend, chino/jeans combination.
Colors: Brown (cognac), burgundy (burgundy), black (more formal).
We recommend: Classic penny loafers

2. Tassel Loafers

Tassel Loafers
Decorative fringes (tassels) on the front. More expressive than penny, but still elegant.

When to wear: Smart casual, office without a strict dress code, summer events.
Colors: Dark brown, black, suede in subdued tones.
For what: Suit without tie, linen trousers, flannel chinos.

3. Horsebit Loafers

Horsebit Loafers
Metal decoration resembling a horse bit (horsebit). Gucci signature, today produced by many brands.

When to wear: More formal occasions than penny/tassel, still casual.
Colors: Black (evening), brown (day).
Attention: Horsebit adds luxury, but may be perceived as "too expressive" in conservative environments.

4. Belgian Loafers

Belgian Loafers
Small bow/knot on the front, shallow design. Minimalist, very elegant.

When to wear: Summer suits, cocktails, outdoor events.
Colors: Often in light shades - beige, tan, dark brown.
Fun fact: Favorite footwear of European aristocracy and celebrities.

5. Venetian Loafers (Plain)

Venetian Loafers
Completely smooth, without any decorations. The purest, simplest design.

When to wear: Minimalist style, paired with elegant jeans and linen trousers.
Colors: Dark brown, black, suede navy blue.
For whom: Lovers of pure forms who avoid decorations.

6. Driving Moccasins

Driving Moccasins
Rubber studs on the sole reaching to the heel. Designed for driving comfort.

When to wear: Casual weekend, holiday, never for formal attire.
Colors: Bright - red, blue, yellow (summer); classic brown (all year round).
Attention: They are not suitable for long walks (minimal sole).

Materials and finishes

Grain leather
Classic - brown, black, burgundy. Easy care, elegance.
Care: Cream, brush, shoe trees.

Suede
Casual, summer. Colors: light brown (tan), navy blue, gray.
Care: Brass brush, waterproofing spray, avoid rain.

Exotic skins
Crocodile, lizard - luxurious, very expensive. Only for experts.

How to choose and wear?

1. Size
Moccasins should fit snugly but not be tight. The skin will stretch in width (0.5 sizes). Better smaller than bigger.

2. Socks or no socks?
Summer: no socks or invisible socks.
Autumn/winter: thin socks in the color of trousers or shoes.

3. What NOT to wear loafers with:

  • Formal suits for weddings/evening events (then oxfords)
  • Very casual outfits (sneakers back then)
  • Sports shorts (dressy linen shorts only)

Sample styles

For the office (business casual):
Penny loafers dark brown/black + suit trousers + shirt (without tie) or sweater.

Weekend:
Tassel loafers suede + dark jeans + polo/casual shirt.

Summer:
Belgian loafers light brown + beige linen pants + linen shirt (without socks).

Dinner/event:
Horsebit loafers, black + dark suit without tie + white shirt.