Suede or grain leather? Which one is better for shoes?

Basic differences

Grain leather
The outer layer of animal skin, smooth and shiny. The most durable part. Used in elegant footwear, handbags and belts.

Suede
The inner layer of the skin is matt, with characteristic "hair". Soft, velvety to the touch.

Key difference: Grain = outside of the leather, suede = inside.

Grain leather - advantages and disadvantages

Benefits:

• Very durable - scratch-resistant
• Easy care - cream, paste, brush
• Water resistant (after impregnation)
• Elegant, formal - goes well with a suit
• Longevity - If cared for, lasts 10+ years

Defects:

• May be stiff (requires spreading)
• Less "breathable" than suede
• Less comfortable in hot weather

When to choose: Office, formal events, rainy weather, everyday wear.

Suede - advantages and disadvantages

Benefits:

• Soft and comfortable immediately
• Breathable - perfect for summer
• Casual, elegant look
• Less formal = more universal styling
• The texture adds depth and character

Defects:

• Demanding care - special brushes, sprays
• Sensitive to water and stains - rain = disaster without impregnation
• Difficult renovation - deeper stains are difficult to remove
• Less durable than grain (wears out faster)

When to choose: Summer, weekend, smart casual, dry weather.

Comparison of properties

Elegance and formality
Full-grain = formal (black oxfords with a suit).
Suede = casual/smart casual (brown chukka with chinos).

Care
Facial = straight: cream + brush.
Suede = demanding: brass brush, spray, avoid water.

Durability
Full grain = decades of care.
Suede = several years if worn carefully.

Seasonality
Full-face = all year round, any weather.
Suede = spring/summer/dry autumn, avoid winter and rain.

Price
Grain = often more expensive (higher quality, durability).
Suede = usually cheaper, but premium suede can also be expensive.

When to choose which one?

Choose full-grain leather if:

• You work in a formal (corporate) environment
• You need shoes for all weather conditions
• You want easy care
• You want shoes that will last for years
• You wear suits a lot

Choose suede if:

• You prefer casual style
• You mainly wear chinos, jeans, informal outfits
• You live in a dry climate
• You like textures and unusual colors (light brown, navy blue, gray)
• Are you looking for summer footwear?

The golden mean - have both!

Perfect pair 1: Black full-grain oxfords
Formal occasions, suit, office.

Perfect Pair 2: Brown Grain Derby
Business casual, universal, everyday.

Perfect Pair 3: Suede Chukka (Light Brown/Tan)
Weekend, summer, jeans, casual meetings.

These three will cover 95% of your shoe needs!

Care - what you need to know

Grain leather:

• Shoe-colored cream/paste (Saphir, Collonil)
• Horsehair brush (polishing)
• Cedar trees
• Rub the cream in once every 3-4 times
• Impregnation twice a year

Suede:

• Brass/crepe brush (bristle lifting)
• Impregnating spray (before the season!)
• Suede eraser (stain removal)
• Color restorer (if fading)
• NEVER water, cream or facial paste!