Nubuck - what is this material and how to care for it?
Nubuck - Luxurious full-grain leather sanded to a velvety finish. Learn the differences between nubuck and suede, the rules of care and whether it is worth investing in.
What is nubuck?
Nubuck is full-grain leather (outer layer) polished on the surface to a velvety finish. It looks like suede, but is more durable.
Key difference:
Suede = inner side of leather (split leather).
Nubuck = the outer side of the leather is polished.
Effect: Nubuck has shorter, denser "hair" than suede, is more resistant to abrasion, but still sensitive to water and stains.
Nubuck vs suede vs grain leather
| Property | Nubuck | Suede | Grain leather |
|---|---|---|---|
| Origin | The face (outer) is polished | Bottom (inner) | Smooth grain |
| Texture | Short, thick hair | Longer, softer hair | Smooth, shiny |
| Durability | Medium-high | Low-medium | Very high |
| Water resistance | Low (without impregnation) | Very low | High |
| Care | Demanding | Very demanding | Easy |
| Price | Medium-high | Low-medium | Medium-high |
Advantages and disadvantages of nubuck
Benefits:
- Elegant, matte look
- More durable than suede
- Soft and comfortable
- Breathable - good for summer
- Unique character (each skin is different)
Defects:
- Very sensitive to water and stains
- Requires regular impregnation
- Difficult to clean
- Gets dirty easily (light colors)
- More expensive than standard facing
How to care for nubuck?
1. Impregnation BEFORE first use
Crucial! Apply the impregnating spray 2-3 times (drying between layers). Repeat every month or after each contact with water.
2. Brushing
Brass or crepe brush (NOT a grain brush!). Brush gently in one direction to lift the hair.
3. Stain removal
Nubuck/suede eraser - gentle rubbing. Deeper stains: special nubuck cleaner + brush.
4. Storage
Cedar trees (prevents shrinkage). Keep out of direct sunlight (they will fade).
5. What NOT to do:
- Do not use water (stains!)
- Do not use cream on grain leather
- Do not dry on a radiator (leather will harden)
What shoes is nubuck best for?
Casual shoes (chukka, desert boots)
Best use - stylish, comfortable, perfect with chinos and jeans.
Colors: Tan (sand brown), dark brown, gray.
Sneakers
Nubuck in premium sneakers = luxury and comfort. Fashionable but demanding.
Ankle boots/Boots
Work boots made of nubuck - a classy outdoor look. Requires maintenance, but wow effect.
I DO NOT recommend for:
- Formal Oxfords (too casual)
- Rain/winter boots (water sensitive)
- Everyday city shoes (too delicate)
Most common problems and solutions
Problem: Water stain
Solution: Wet the entire surface lightly with water (spray), dry naturally, brush.
Problem: Grease/dirt stain
Solution: Nubuck eraser, specialist cleaner, and ultimately, a shoemaker.
Problem: Color fading
Solution: Color renovator spray (Saphir, Collonil) + brushing.
Problem: Hardening of the skin
Solution: Softening spray + gentle stretching with hands.
Is it worth investing in nubuck?
Nubuck is a beautiful, distinctive material, but it requires commitment. If:
- ✅ You like to take care of things
- ✅ You wear shoes mainly in dry weather
- ✅ You value a unique look
- ✅ You already have the basic grain shoes
Nubuck will be a great choice!
If:
- ❌ You want to "set it and forget it"
- ❌ You live in a rainy climate
- ❌ These are your first pair of elegant shoes
It's better to choose grain leather.
