Men's trousers with cuffs - when and how to wear them?

Do cuffs lengthen or shorten the silhouette? How to choose the width and height of the hem and what to wear it with at various degrees of formality.

What are trouser cuffs?

A cuff is a turning of a trouser leg towards the outside, usually 3-5 cm high. Found in suit trousers, flannel trousers, chinos and coordinated sports sets. Their functions: add weight to the bottom of the leg (better fall), protect the hem against fraying, and give a sporty and elegant character.

When should you choose cuffs?

Medium and tall height — cuffs visually shorten the leg; in tall men they balance the proportions.
Thicker fabrics — flannel, tweed, denim; the cuff adds weight and stabilizes the drop.
Lower formality — business casual, smart casual; for formal suits for evening events, cuffs are less common.

When to avoid?

Short stature — an additional horizontal line may shorten the leg; choose without cuffs or shorter height (3 cm) and higher waist.
Very narrow legs — the cuff will disturb the proportions; preferably with a tapered/straight cut.
Formal black tie — tuxedo pants are worn without cuffs.

What height and width?

It's a classic 4–4.5 cm with a height of 175–185 cm. Below 175 cm - 3-3.5 cm; over 185 cm - 5 cm. Leg width at the bottom 18-21 cm (depending on foot size and figure). It is best to discuss the proportions with the tailor during fitting.

What to wear with?

Jacket + shirt without tie — shoes: brogues, derbies, loafers.
Sweater + shirt — tassel/penny moccasins, chukka.
Summer set — linen chinos with cuffs + loafers without socks (invisible).
Winter — flannel with cuffs + oxfords with a rubber sole or ankle boots.

The most common mistakes

Too high a cuff on a narrow leg - the effect of a "heavy" bottom.
Cuff on pants that are too short - sock exposed with every step.
Quick hems instead of a cuff sewn by a tailor - it rolls up and looks sloppy.

Shopping tips

If the pants have a spare fabric, the tailor will sew the cuff in 30-60 minutes.
Adjust the height to your height and shoes (larger cuff for heavier shoes).
Check whether the fabric is not too thin (the cuff may "pull").