Men's shoes and dress code - how to choose shoes for the level of formality?

Why is knowing the dress code important?

Dress code is a set of rules specifying how to dress for a specific occasion. In the world of men's fashion, there are several levels of formality - from the most casual Casual to the extremely formal White Tie. Shoes play a key role in following these rules.

Improperly selected footwear can ruin even the best-tailored suit and make you feel uncomfortable at the event. On the other hand, knowledge of dress codes allows you to move confidently in any situation.

In this guide, you'll explore all levels of formality and what shoes to choose for each of them.

Dress code levels - an overview

Levels of formality (from most to least formal):

1. White Tie — the highest level of formality
2. BlackTie — very formal
3. Black Tie Optional — formal with some casualness
4. Attire cocktail — elegant and sociable
5. Business Formal/Corporate — business formal
6. Business Casual — informal business
7. Smart Casual — elegant-casual
8. Casual — casual
9. Athletics — sporty and casual

White Tie - the highest level of formality

What is: The highest level of formality - balls, galas, opera, official state ceremonies.

Outfit:
- Tailcoat in black
- White vest
- White shirt with stiff trim
- White bow tie
- Black patent trousers

Shoes:
✓ Black patent oxfords (Patent leather Oxfords)
✓ Black lacquered opera pumps (without laces, with grosgrain ribbon)
✗ Everything else

Attention: White Tie is an extremely rare dress code - most men will never encounter it.

Black Tie - Very formal

What is: Very formal events - elegant weddings, galas, business dinners, concerts, premieres.

Outfit:
- Tuxedo (tuxedo) in black or dark granite
- Black bow tie
- White tuxedo shirt (with pleats or plain)
- Black vest or kummerbund
- Black tuxedo pants with stripes

Shoes:
✓ Black patent oxfords (best)
✓ Black smooth Oxfords (perfectly acceptable)
✗ Brown shoes (never!)
✗ Derby shoes, moccasins, sneakers

Black Tie Optional

What is: Formal with the option of a less formal alternative - elegant weddings, dinners, corporate events.

Outfit (Option 1 - Tuxedo):
Like Black Tie

Outfit (option 2 - dark suit):
- Dark suit (black, navy blue, dark gray)
- Tie or bow tie
- White shirt

Shoes:
✓ Black Oxfords (smooth or varnished)
✓ Black Derby (if not tuxedo)
○ Dark brown Oxfords (only with suit, not with tuxedo)

Attire cocktail

What is: Elegant evening social event - cocktails, receptions, dinners, community events.

Outfit:
- Dark or navy blue suit
- Shirt (can be colored)
- Tie (optional)

Shoes:
✓ Black or dark brown Oxfords
✓ Black or brown Derby
✓ Monk Strap (elegant alternative)
○ Loafers (for more casual cocktail events)

Business Formal/Corporate

What is: Standard dress code in corporations, banking, law firms, and meetings with clients.

Outfit:
- Suit (navy blue, gray, black)
- Shirt (white, light)
- Tie
- Strap to match the shoes

Shoes:
✓ Black Oxfords (safest)
✓ Black Derby
✓ Dark brown Oxford/Derby shoes (with navy blue or gray suit)
✗ Moccasins, sneakers, casual shoes

Business Casual

What is: Looser office dress code - startups, creative agencies, Fridays in corporations.

Outfit:
- Chinos or suit trousers (without jacket)
- Shirt (can be unbuttoned at the collar)
- Optional: sweater, jacket without tie

Shoes:
✓ Brown or black Derby
✓ Monk Strap
✓ Moccasins (penny loafers, tassel loafers)
✓ Chukka boots
○ Minimalist sneakers (in more casual companies)

Smart Casual

What is: Elegance with casual comfort - dates, dinners at restaurants, community events, informal business meetings.

Outfit:
- Jeans (dark, without holes) or chinos
- Shirt, polo or sweater
- Optional: jacket or blazer

Shoes:
✓ Moccasins
✓ Chelsea Boots
✓ Chukka boots / Desert boots
✓ Brown Derby
✓ Minimalist sneakers (white, black)
✗ Sports shoes, flip-flops, sandals

Casual

What is: Casual, everyday attire - weekends, walks, meetings with friends, shopping.

Outfit:
- Jeans
- T-shirt, polo, sweatshirt
- Jacket, bomber, parka

Shoes:
✓ Sneakers (all types)
✓ Moccasins
✓ Espadrilles (in summer)
✓ Sandals (summer, outdoors)
✓ Work boots, Dr. Doc Martens
✓ Virtually anything that is convenient

Practical tips

1. When in doubt, overdress

It's better to be too elegant than too casual. You can take off your jacket, but you can't suddenly dress better.

2. Check the dress code before the event

If the invitation does not specify - ask the organizer.

3. Match accessories

Shoes = belt = bag (same color and material).

4. Context matters

Cocktail attire on the beach ≠ cocktail attire at the hotel. Adapt to the place.

5. Culture matters

The dress code in the USA is more casual than in Europe. The dress code in Asia is more formal.

Summary

Knowledge of dress codes and the ability to choose the right shoes are the key to self-confidence on any occasion. Remember the basic rules: the more formal the event, the darker and more classic the shoes.

Black Oxfords will cover most formal situations. Add a brown Derby and white sneakers and you'll be prepared for 95% of the occasions.

When in doubt, choose the more elegant one. You can always adjust the level of formality down, but not up.