High-top shoes: which one to choose? The complete guide

What are ankle boots?

Ankle boots are a category that includes various styles: Chelsea boots, ankle boots, chukka boots, Chelsea boots. Main feature: the upper reaches above the ankle (5-10 cm above). Advantages: support for the ankle joint, protection against cold, universality (elegance + functionality), good fit with long and knee-length trousers.

Types of ankle boots

Chukka Boots
2-3 eyelets, suede or leather, narrow cut, casual and business. The perfect first choice - they go well with chinos, jeans and suit trousers.
We recommend: brown and gray suede.

Chelsea Boots
Slip-on with elastic inserts on the sides. Elegant, slim, great with a suit and a sweater with a shirt. Universal: from the office to dinner.
We recommend: black and brown leather.

Chelsea boots (Derby Boots/Oxford Boots)
Lace-up, high upper, elegant finish. More formal than a chukka, less formal than oxfords.
We recommend: dark brown, black with a leather sole.

Work Boots
Massive, thick sole, often with Goodyear Welt stitching. Casual, autumn-winter, outdoor.
We recommend: models with a rubber sole for rainy weather.

What to wear them with?

For a suit
Chelsea boots (black/brown) or derby boots in a grain finish. Avoid chunky soles and suedes in very formal environments.

With jeans and chino
Chukka suede boots (brown, gray, navy blue) + casual shirt or sweater. Preferably with dark jeans and straight/tapered legs.

For winter and rain
Ankle boots made of thick leather + rubber sole (Vibram, Dainite). Necessarily impregnated. Insulated Chelsea boots will also work.

For spring/autumn
Light chukka in light brown or Chelsea in darker tones. Suede models in dry weather, leather in wet weather.

How to choose the right one?

• Pants length — the tip should lightly touch the upper or end 1-2 cm above. Avoid pants that are too long and fit over your shoes.
• Growth — shorter men: choose slim models (Chelsea, narrow chukkas) instead of massive bag boots.
• Foot width — wide foot: look for brands that offer wider lasts (UK width fitting). Slim: Chelsea and chukka with fitted column.
• Skin type — suede = casual + demanding care; grain leather = elegance + easier maintenance.

High-top shoe care

Suede
Brass brush, impregnating spray, suede renovator. Do not wear it in the rain without waterproofing.

Grain leather
Shoe-colored cream or paste, horsehair brush, cedar shoe trees after each wear.

Sole
Leather: delicate, avoid wet surface. Rubber: durable, safe in all conditions.

Storage
Always in shoe trees, in a dry place. After a wet day: dry naturally (not with a radiator!), then cream/impregnate.

The most common mistakes

• Chunky boots for an elegant suit - too casual an effect.
• Too narrow Chelsea boots for wide trousers - disproportion.
• Failure to impregnate suede before the season - irreversible discoloration.
• Wearing the same shoes every day - wearing out quickly, no time to dry.

Which one to choose first?

If you only have one pair, go for it Chelsea boots in dark brown or black — will match 80% of your wardrobe (suit, jeans, chino).

Second pair: suede chukka in light brown — perfect weekend and casual Friday.

Third pair: more massive shoes with a rubber sole — winter, rain, outdoor.